Long-time readers know I was lucky enough to call Cambridge my home for six years. But since moving to London 16 years ago, I haven't been back as often as I should. I decided to make the most of last Saturday's glorious weather by taking a day trip, exploring Cambridge's 'town' and 'gown' sides. Read on to discover my ultimate itinerary for a perfect day in Cambridge: things to do and places to eat, drink and shop.
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01 April 2025
17 November 2024
A Long Weekend in New York City: Autumn 2024
23 November 2023
Celebrating a Milestone Birthday in NYC
As I wrote a couple of weeks ago, this month marked a big birthday for me. And where better to celebrate it than my favourite of cities, New York City? My parents and brother joined me for an action-packed five-day trip to the Big Apple, my 33rd visit to the city since my first in 1995. Each of us was allocated a randomly assigned time slot in which to plan a group activity but there were plenty more celebrations, experiences and wonderful new memories throughout the trip. Read on for a selection of some of my favourites.
11 August 2023
A Caffeinated Weekend Itinerary for Birmingham
Welcome to my guide to spending a perfect caffeinated weekend in Birmingham. My family is from the West Midlands but I didn't spend a lot of time in Brum growing up. I've been remedying this in recent years — often when en route to Wolverhampton Wanders matches. On these stops, I prioritise specialty coffee and food (in that order) but a long weekend in Brum a few months ago inspired me to create this itinerary. Read on for industrial heritage, quirky museums and plenty of great places for food and coffee — and there's a map and downloadable one-page cheatsheet at the end!
29 June 2022
An (Almost) Midsummer Week in New York City
I was last in New York in February 2020, a work trip that also took me to Seattle for a conference. It was a strange time to be there, as COVID cases began to climb, and no one really knew how to act as we didn't know what was to come. I did what I usually did and tried to go to as many of my favourite NYC places as possible, saving the rest for the trip with my parents I had booked in for May 2020. Of course, it turned out that it was my last foreign trip for 18 months, and the two-year gap until my return earlier this month was my longest absence from my favourite city in more than 15 years.
23 September 2021
How To Spend a Long Weekend in Edinburgh
Earlier this month, I spent four days in Edinburgh with my parents, and although we only scratched the surface, we had a grand time and packed a lot in. We even had reasonable weather in that it didn't rain much and was occasionally sunny. A return was long overdue since my last visit on a rainy family road trip through Scotland, almost three decades ago. All I remember from the trip is the Scottish National Gallery, Greyfriars Kirkyard and an overexuberant walking tour guide shouting, "Gardyloo!" I had a lot of ground to make up!
02 August 2021
A Staycation Weekend in Notting Hill and Mayfair
With the glorious British summer in full force — oh, wait, that was two weeks ago — it was the perfect time for a staycation. I joined my parents in Pall Mall for a couple of nights last weekend, and although it wasn't as sunny as we had hoped, nor was it as rainy as forecast, and we made the best of it, dining at three different restaurants and spending a very enjoyable day exploring Notting Hill.
28 December 2020
Bex's Coffee and Food Awards: 2020 Edition
We're now inching closer to the end of an exceptionally challenging year. Despite everything, I know I'm very lucky to have remained healthy and in work (busier than ever, in fact, as I work for a science journal) throughout, but it's been such a difficult year for the hospitality industry, as coffee shops and eateries have had to adapt and then adapt some more in the face of constant change.
02 November 2020
Finding Comfort in Comfort Food at the Provisioners' Foodslut Residency
Things could be much worse, but I've had a tough few months, with work busier than ever — I work for a scientific journal so it's been non-stop COVID-19 research. And unfortunately, all of the six holidays that I had booked this year happened to fall during times when London and its UK were under more restrictive COVID-19 measures. My last hope of getting a proper break was the two weeks I had booked in November, initially to go to Thailand, then I thought I might manage Italy, before eventually booking a last-minute trip to Athens, with a family trip to Devon as a back-up. My 'plan C' was to use my annual leave to visit lots of coffee shops and restaurants in London — I really feel for everyone working in the hospitality industry at the moment, and want to continue to show my support. And then, of course, the 'not-a-lockdown' second lockdown put paid even to that.
27 February 2020
A Wintry Week in New York City
Ahead of a week in Seattle for a conference, I got to spend a few days in New York. I was staying in the Financial District, close to my company's office, where I was working for most of my trip (happily, I'll be back again in May). I did, however, have a free day-and-a-half in the city at the weekend. I was very lucky with the weather too: although it was cold, it was beautifully sunny on Saturday and Sunday, the rain coming out in time for my return to the office. As well as visiting a few speciality coffee shops, old and new, here's what else I got up to.
11 November 2019
An Autumnal Week in New York City
10 September 2019
A Long Weekend in Ljubljana: Bex’s Guide
24 May 2019
A Long Weekend in Chicago: Bex's Guide
It's taken me too long to visit Chicago — the Midwestern city, on the shores of Lake Michigan, has been in my sights for some time. I missed out on a work trip a few years ago, but as it would have been during a particularly cold and snowy February, that may have been for the best.
13 December 2018
A Weekend in Amsterdam: Bex's Guide
22 June 2018
Long Weekend in New York City: Bex's Guide
Following on from the long weekend in London guide I compiled last summer, I’ve put together an itinerary for a four-day weekend in New York. This assumes arrival on a Thursday afternoon and departure on Sunday evening but you can mix things up to suit your own plans. On the agenda are some of my favourite things to do and see, and places to eat, drink, shop and drink coffee. Scroll to the end for even more recommendations, some practical information and a Google Map of each featured place. I hope you find this guide useful — please let me know in the comments if you have any questions or suggestions. You can find all of my NYC-related blog posts here.
THURSDAY
15:00 Jet-lag busting
A morning flight from London can get you to JFK or Newark soon after lunch, and if you take a taxi into town you could be at your hotel by 15:00 local time. I usually head straight out into the daylight and towards coffee. Luckily, NYC has a booming speciality coffee scene and the choice is vast. If you’re in SoHo try Everyman Espresso, in the Flatiron District check out Paper Coffee or in Midtown (via Melbourne) head to Little Collins (pictured). For many other options, click over to my full New York coffee shop guide.
18:00 Casual supper
On my first evening, I like to go to a favourite spot for a low-key dinner. The historic Fanelli Café in SoHo has served food and drink, under various names, since 1847, and is a great spot for comfort food. Likewise, P.J. Clarke’s, whose bustling Midtown East branch (featured in Mad Men) is my favourite, serves a mean burger, and other modern American classics.
20:00 Sunsets and the city
You may be craving your bed but holding out for a glorious sunset from the Top of the Rock could be more rewarding (weather-permitting). I like the view here more than from the top of the Empire State Building, not least because you can see the latter from the Top of the Rock. The space at the top is more open too, which allows for better viewing and photos.
FRIDAY
07:00 Central Park run
Unless you’re a super sleeper, you will probably wake up early and a run around the 843-acre Central Park is the perfect way to kickstart your morning. There’s a 10km running loop around the park but there are lots of other paths if you’d like a shorter run. Pick up a coffee afterwards from Ninth Street Espresso or Blue Bottle, and perhaps a sweet treat from Milk Bar.
09:00 Take the High Line
Head to the West 34th Street end of the High Line, an art-filled public park constructed on an elevated rail line that runs south to Gansevoort Street in the Meatpacking District. Stop for coffee along the way at Underline or Intelligentsia, and pop into Chelsea Market for interesting shops and eateries, and Story, a concept store with ever-changing concepts.
11:00 Village shops
The West Village and Greenwich Village together form one of New York’s loveliest areas. It’s fun to pick out your favourite brownstone on the small, characterful streets, and there are wonderful shops. Try Flight 001 for travel goods, Three Lives & Co (one of my all-time favourite bookshops), Marine Layer for ‘absurdly soft’ clothing, Pink Olive for accessories and gifts, and Greenwich Letterpress for beautiful stationery.
13:00 Downtown lunch
You won’t starve in these parts. Lunch options include Corner Bistro, Mighty Quinn’s Barbeque, Dante (pictured) and Jeffrey’s Grocery. I haven’t yet tried the pizzas (or burger) at Emily, but they are supposed to be top notch. For a post-lunch coffee, check out Stumptown’s gorgeous NYC flagship cafe on West 8th (pictured) or the petite but perfectly formed Third Rail Coffee just south of Washington Square.
14:30 South of Houston
Head south into the shopping paradise of SoHo. I prefer this downtown branch of Bloomingdale’s to the stuffier uptown original, and many of the chains I like to visit in the US — Madewell, Lululemon, Patagonia and Sephora — have stores here. Just east of Broadway, you can find the MoMA Design Store, minimalist clothing retailer Everlane, and two great bookshops: Housing Works and McNally Jackson. If you need another coffee, look no further than Cafe Integral, a beautiful cafe that specialises in single-origin Nicaraguan coffees (pictured).
16:00 Tenement tour
The Tenement Museum offers unique insights into the Lower East Side neighbourhood by running tours through restored tenement apartments that bring immigrant stories to life. I’ve taken three tours, one focusing on an Irish family, one on public health and one walking tour with samples of foods typical of various immigrant cuisines. Many tours sell out, so you should book in advance if possible.
19:00 LES dinner and drinks
You can find almost any cuisine in the restaurants of the Lower East Side, from Vanessa’s legendary dumplings, to Mission Chinese Food and Tijuana Picnic. Retire to The Back Room, a Prohibition Era secret speakeasy, for cocktails.
SATURDAY
09:00 Brooklyn breakfast Take the subway to Brooklyn’s Bedford-Stuyvesant for a cracking breakfast at Golda. With great coffee from Parlor and Middle Eastern-influenced cuisine in a bright and beautifully designed cafe, it’s well worth the trip. If you have time — and especially in cherry blossom season — walk off your breakfast in the Brooklyn Botanic Garden.
11:30 Williamsburg wander
Ride the subway to hip Williamsburg. Sweatshop on Metropolitan, Toby’s Estate on North 6th and Devoción on Grand are great coffee choices in the area. On Bedford Avenue, shop — and people-watch — your way up to McCarren Park. Then head west to East River State Park, for Smorgasburg, a huge outdoor street food market. It’s there every Saturday from October until April.
15:00 Boat trippin’
The NYC Ferry runs a route that zigzags along the East River between Manhattan and Brooklyn from 34th Street to Wall Street. It’s a scenic ride and the fastest, most fun way to travel from Williamsburg to Dumbo. Disembark at Brooklyn Bridge and enjoy the views of the Manhattan skyline from Brooklyn Bridge Park. Then develop more house envy in Brooklyn Heights, a picturesque neighbourhood with historic brownstones and fruit-themed street names.
18:00 A view from the bridge
If you’re lucky, you may hit golden hour or sunset when you take a leisurely stroll across Brooklyn Bridge. This is my favourite walk in the world, and I still get a thrill each time I first set foot upon the iconic bridge’s pedestrian walkway. The experience is better if you walk from Brooklyn to Manhattan; otherwise, you’ll just keep turning around to soak in the stunning Manhattan skyline views, like Orpheus unable to resist the temptation of Eurydice. Don’t rush, take lots of photos and mind the cyclists!
19:00 World-class cocktails
The Brooklyn Bridge walkway leads to City Hall and then it’s a short walk to The Dead Rabbit, which rightly features in numerous lists of the world’s best cocktail bars. Its sister bar, BlackTail (pictured), in Battery Park is just as good.
20:30 Neighbourhood dining
From the Financial District, it’s a short subway ride to North Moore Street in Tribeca, home to one of my favourite New York restaurants. Cosy, intimate and with delicious food and well-mixed cocktails, Smith & Mills is a special place. They don’t take reservations but it’s worth the wait. If the jet lag hasn’t kicked in, go for a nightcap. Mother’s Ruin in SoHo and The Up & Up (pictured) in Greenwich Village are two of my favourite cocktail spots.
SUNDAY
09:00 Brunch o’clock
Ward off last night’s excesses with a good brekkie. Prune, Ruby’s, Jack’s Wife Freda (pictured) and Bluestone Lane are all excellent choices. It’s worth booking if the eatery accepts reservations.
11:00 Sunday morning culture
Journey to Museum Mile, a section of Fifth Avenue that runs along Central Park’s Eastern flank. The Metropolitan Museum of Art may be on your must-see list, but for a more doable chunk of culture on a short trip, I prefer the Guggenheim (pictured) and the Frick Collection on East 70th — a ‘best-of’ collection of Old Masters. For post-culture coffee, try Flora Bar.
13:00 Pizza the action
If you haven’t yet had your pizza fix, take the subway to Motorino (pictured) in the East Village, which serves supremely tasty Neapolitan pizza; new LES opening Una Pizza Napoletana is also highly rated.
14:30 Getting square
After lunch, wander through the East Village and then up to Union Square. The farmers’ market isn’t open on Sundays, but there are often events and festivals taking place. Walk up Fifth Avenue or Broadway to Madison Square (both stretches are great for shopping — ABC Carpet & Home and quirky crockery purveyor Fishs Eddy are located on Broadway). Madison Square Park often has art and always has superb views of the Flat Iron and Empire State Building. If you skipped lunch, seek sustenance at Shake Shack or Italian food emporium Eataly. If you have time for a last coffee, try Patent (which turns into a cocktail bar at 16:00) or Blank Slate.
FIVE MORE GREAT…
- speciality coffee spots: Black Fox (FiDi), Cafe Grumpy (multiple locations), City of Saints (East Village), Ground Support (SoHo) and Joe (Greenwich Village and other locations); and five more: Culture Espresso (Midtown), Irving Farm (LES and other locations), La Colombe (multiple locations), Terremoto (Chelsea) and Voyager Espresso (FiDi).
- brunch spots: Cookshop (Chelsea), Egg Shop (Nolita), Nickel & Diner (Chinatown), Sunday in Brooklyn (Williamsburg) and Two Hands (Tribeca).
- food markets/halls: DeKalb Market Hall (Brooklyn), Essex Street Market (LES), Gotham West Market (Hell’s Kitchen), Turnstyle (Midtown) and Urbanspace Vanderbilt (Midtown)
- quick eats: Black Seed (Nolita), City Bakery (Flatiron), Los Tacos No 1 (Chelsea), Luke’s Lobster (FiDi) and Mister Dips (Williamsburg).
- dinner picks: Brindle Room (East Village), Diner (Williamsburg), Five Leaves (Greenpoint), The Spotted Pig (West Village) and Roberta’s (Bushwick).
- cocktail bars: Bar Goto (LES), Clover Club (Cobble Hill), Employees Only (West Village), Huckleberry Bar (Williamsburg) and Pegu Club (SoHo).
- unique things to do: cocktails at the Met, kayak in or trapeze over the Hudson, New York guided photo safari or pizza tour, Roosevelt Island Tramway and Staten Island Ferry.
- parks: Battery Park, Governors Island Park, Hudson River Park, Riverside Park and Washington Square Park (Greenwich Village).
- indie cinemas: Angelika Film Center (NoHo), Film Forum (West Village), IFC (Greenwich Village), The Paris (Midtown) and Nitehawk (Williamsburg).
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| Black Fox Coffee |
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| Cookshop |
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| The Spotted Pig |
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Accommodation: I’ve stayed in diverse New York accommodations, from youth hostels to the Four Seasons, and everything in between. Recently, I’ve been impressed with the Soho Grand and the Gild Hall (I got a great deal when staying in February). However, given the wealth of options available, I’d suggest searching with sites like booking.com, hotels.com or Airbnb. Neighbourhood-wise, I prefer to stay in SoHo, Nolita or the Flatiron District for maximum flexibility and access to good coffee.
Arriving: From JFK, I usually splurge on a taxi, which is $52 plus tolls to Manhattan. The journey takes around an hour, depending on traffic. You can also take the AirTrain to Howard Beach subway station and then the A train into Manhattan. This costs about $8 and can be done in 1h15. From Newark, I take the AirTrain monorail and then the train to Penn Station, which costs $13 and takes about 50 minutes.
Getting around: I walk a lot when I’m in New York, jumping on the subway when necessary. The subway is generally the most efficient mode of transport, although if you’re travelling from east to west, buses are helpful. Taxis, Uber and Lyft are plentiful.
Money: US currency is the dollar ($). The UK exchange rate has been dire for some time. Credit and debit cards are accepted almost everywhere — even at many street-food stalls. Chip-and-pin and contactless payment options are catching on, although far from universal. Cashpoints (ATMs) are ubiquitous; some charge a fee for withdrawals.
When to come: Apart from July and August, when the city is often unbearably hot and sticky, New York is a delight to visit throughout the year. For busy sight-seeing agendas, spring or autumn are my favourite seasons, even if the weather can be unpredictable. Bring layers — or be prepared to shop. The city is magical during the holiday season and although it can be very cold and snowy, it’s rare that inclement weather causes much disruption.
- My four-part NYC guide from 2013
- Time Out New York — things to do, events, culture, food and drink
- New York Magazine — NYC news, culture, lifestyle, food and drink
- Gothamist — news, food, art and events
- Eater — all of the best NYC food and drink news and reviews
- MTA — public transport information
- Citymapper — useful journey-planning website; there's an app too
Found this post useful? Please consider supporting my blog by buying me a coffee.
09 April 2018
At Temple of Seitan, Canal-Side Comfort Food and Speciality Coffee
The eatery, which has a sister location in Hackney, is as close to King's Cross as Camden, a mere ten-minute stroll along the canal from the former, past the ongoing Coal Drops Yard construction site. Temple of Seitan is, you see, serves vegan fast food. After enjoying a really good vegan 'bacon cheeseburger' in Austin recently, I was keen to sample some more tasty meat-free fast food. I was a vegetarian for a decade and although I rarely eat meat at home, I am rather partial to a good steak or burger when I eat out. But I like to explore the alternatives too.
I finally got the chance to eat at Temple of Seitan on Friday, a windy but very sunny day. The restaurant was packed and although there were no free tables inside, there are a few seats in the courtyard, just off the canal towpath. I didn't have to wait long to order and then it was only another 10 minutes or so before my food arrived — the staff clearly had a very efficient process down.
At Temple of Seitan, they serve both fried 'chik'n' and 'hamburgers', all made from seitan. Figuring the chicken burger would probably be more 'meaty', I ordered the Temple Burger — a chicken fillet with rancho mayo, bacon, cheese, lettuce and pickle (£7). I also went for a small portion of fries (£2) with chicken salt (presumably chik'n salt!).
I took my food out to eat in the sunshine, although the strong wind did mean I had to hold on to my chips. The chicken burger was flavoursome and juicy — a worthy substitute for its meaty equivalent — and although the cheese might have been better if it had been melted, it was still good. When I was a vegetarian, bacon was the food I missed most because the substitutes fell so short — and I think they still have a long way to go, unfortunately, but the bac'n here was tasty. The fries were perfectly crisp and the chicken salt was a nice addition.
In the mornings, they serve bagels and there is coffee available all day from Hackney-based Dark Arts Coffee. I had a cortado (£2.20) and it was only afterwards that I realised I had, of course, inadvertently sampled my first Oatly-based espresso drink. The coffee was very well made and the fact that I couldn't tell that it was dairy-free speaks volumes. They have Bonsoy available too.
I'm sure I'll back to Temple of Seitan before long — either with colleagues, or perhaps as a treat on the way back from a run. It's so close to King's Cross and yet the quiet canal-side location feels like it's a world away. And if you haven't tried vegetarian fast food before, or for a while, I'd suggest paying Temple of Seitan a visit — it might surprise you.
Temple of Seitan. 103a Camley Street, London, N1C 4PF (Tube: King's Cross, Mornington Crescent or Camden Town). Website. Twitter. Instagram.




































