Since I moved back to London 15 years ago, I have spent a lot of time eating my way around the city's increasingly diverse and impressive restaurant scene. To help me keep track — and for when friends and family asked for recommendations — I started jotting down my favourites in a Moleskine City notebook, which eventually evolved into a Google Sheet and then a blog post in 2016. An update was long overdue and here it is: my 50 favourite restaurants in London. 

The original Gentlemen Baristas has been one of my favourite coffee shops in my neighbourhood — Bermondsey and Borough — for over seven years. While spending a lot more time closer to home over the past few years, I've been stopping by more often, usually to get a piccolo to go. If you like your coffee shops to combine cosiness with dapperness, this is the place to go.

Of all the countries I've visited, Mexico is the one that tops my list of places I'd love to return to. When I spent two weeks there in 2015, the food was one of the highlights of the trip, from the street food in Mexico City (and elsewhere) to tasting menus and cooking classes in Oaxaca. It's no surprise, then, that I was muy emocionada to hear about the opening of Santiago Lastra's KOL restaurant in Marylebone almost a year ago. Lockdown and not managing to book far enough in advance meant that I was only able to visit with my parents a couple of weeks ago, but it was well worth the wait.

The past two years have been among the most challenging for hospitality businesses, including specialty coffee shops, in London, and around the world. Keeping a specialty coffee shop in business in London is difficult even in normal times, let alone during a global pandemic, which has felt like a game of snakes and ladders with constant changes of rules, snap lockdowns and general uncertainty. Unfortunately, some coffee shops have had to close permanently (please come back, Black Swan Yard!), but it's been encouraging to see how many new — and often exciting — cafes have opened in London in the past couple of years. 

One of the best things about the London specialty coffee scene is the relationships between the numerous coffee shops and roasters. My favourite way to find great coffee served by great people is through recommendations from coffee shops I already know and love. Today's Caffeine Chronicles post is about Nostos Coffee, a neighbourhood coffee shop in Battersea that I heard about through Laith at the excellent Saint Nine Coffee, which, in turn, I heard about through the lovely folks at Rosslyn Coffee.

On Swallow Street, just off Regent Street's curving tail is a Danish-influenced haven of speciality coffee, Hagen Espresso Bar. The name calls back to Copenhagen, where the concept was born; both have roots in the Old Norse word hǫfn, which, appropriately enough, means 'haven'.

Before Christmas and when restaurants were still open in London, I was able to get a table at the London location of Six by Nico. Nico Simeone's small family of restaurants are currently located in six UK cities (the original was in Glasgow) and specialise in themed, six-course tasting menus priced at an extremely reasonable £35. The restaurants are currently closed but will hopefully be back again soon when restrictions ease with another exciting theme.

We're now inching closer to the end of an exceptionally challenging year. Despite everything, I know I'm very lucky to have remained healthy and in work (busier than ever, in fact, as I work for a science journal) throughout, but it's been such a difficult year for the hospitality industry, as coffee shops and eateries have had to adapt and then adapt some more in the face of constant change. 

Keeping an independent coffee shop afloat in central London is no mean feat at best of times, let alone opening one, and especially in 2020. But Black Box in Covent Garden is hardly barista and owner Ant's first speciality coffee rodeo; it's not even Ant's first Black Box, although it was the now-defunct Black Chapel in Wandsworth, beloved by my fellow bloggers at BeanThere.at among many others, that was the one that got away from me.

UPDATE. I was very sad to hear that as of spring 2022, BUSI has closed. They do hope to return in some form in another location in the not-too-distant future.

If anything was going to cut through the gloom of another grey and rainy Saturday in London, the pastel-hued design and thoughtful speciality coffee offering of BUSI stood a very good chance. The high-concept speciality coffee shop opened up in the summer — I heard about it thanks to Amelia's beautiful photos — on Great Portland Street, just north of Oxford Circus, and combines the respective passions for design and coffee of owners Anna and Emil. The name BUSI is the couple's term of endearment for each other, and in a 2020 world where joy can sometimes feel in short supply, it's hard not to warm to this philosophy.

There's something about a multi-course brunch that I reminds me of some of the extended, high-end brunches I've enjoyed in Paris. In London, it's often a more casual affair, but in these COVID-19 times, why wouldn't I want to linger over two brunch courses plus speciality coffee from Difference Coffee? And brand-new cafe–bar Queens of Mayfair is a beautiful setting to do just that.

When Curators Coffee Gallery closed earlier this year, I was sad to have lost one of my favourite central London speciality coffee shops. Both its Margaret Street location, just a couple of blocks north of Oxford Circus, and its high-quality, multi-roaster coffee offering kept me coming back time after time. As such, I was excited to spot the distinctive, red Kiss the Hippo branding when I was passing the site one afternoon in June.


Speciality coffee roaster Kiss the Hippo's first cafe is in Richmond and despite the plaudits it has received, I rarely journey that far west in London and hadn't managed to visit. To make amends for this oversight, I've now visited the new Fitzrovia location twice, once on a busy Saturday afternoon and again the following week before an early meeting on Portland Place. Unsurprisingly, I'm very much enamoured with Margaret Street's newest speciality coffee occupants, and it's set to become my go-to 'I'm on Oxford Street...get me out of here' destination.



The sleek space looks quite different from Curators' geometry-centric cafe. Instead, light wood dominates, with lots of light coming in through the large front window, even on duller days. The layout remains similar, however, with the long coffee bar dominating most of the space, several stools perched by the window, a few small tables opposite the counter and at the back, and a basement seating area. At the front, there's also a wide range of Kiss the Hippo coffee and merch, as well as other coffee-making kit.



When I visit, there are three espressos on offer — the George Street blend, a single-origin Ethiopian and a single-origin decaf — as well as two single-origin pourovers and a batch brew filter coffee. Various non-coffee drinks are also available, with some seasonal offerings 'coming soon.' After reading the description of the natural Panama Carmen Gesha (£7), which won second place at the Best of Panama 2017 coffee competition, and which has notes of bergamot, vanilla and lavender, my mind is already made up. I order the coffee and a coconut cookie, and take a seat at the last remaining table, just opposite the coffee bar. NB, the cafe is cashless, which suits me fine as I rarely carry cash.


Although it's busy, I don't have to wait too long for my Kalita-wave brewed pourover to arrive and it smells so good that I savour the scents while it cools before taking my first taste. When I do, the delicate flavours come through beautifully and I enjoy every sip. The presentation is excellent too with the coffee in a glass Kinto cup on a rounded wood tray that also bears a card with the tasting notes and story of Carlos Aguilera's Carmen Estate.


On my second visit, I'm more pressed for time and order a cortado (£2.80) with the George Street espresso blend. My coffee is very well brewed and it is very clear that a great deal of care has been put into the Kiss the Hippo operation, from the coffee itself, to the brewing, the service and the venue. And in case you were wondering, the embracing of ungulates is not required...




Kiss the Hippo. 51 Margaret Street, London, W1W 8SG (Tube: Oxford Circus). Website. Twitter. Instagram.

For 100+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, please check out my speciality coffee guide.

You can also read Brian's take on Kiss the Hippo over on the Coffee Spot.

Fitzrovia is one of my favourite neighbourhoods in central London and it's also long been a great area for speciality coffee shops. I was saddened to find out that Curators Coffee Gallery, on Margaret Street, had closed recently. But fear not, Fitzrovers; there's a new speciality coffee bar on the block.


Located just south of the BT Tower on a quiet stretch of Cleveland Street, independent speciality coffee shop Kafi opened a couple of months ago. As well as putting a lot of care and attention into the quality of their coffee and tea offering, owners Yatish and Tripti have also put sustainability and traceability at the centre of what they do. Yatish, a Double Skinny Macchiato reader, invited me to visit and I've been twice now, meeting Yatish on my second visit.




Kafi is on the petite size but there is a good amount of seating — mainly on the cushion-laden benches that line the walls, which have handy pull-out tables, although there's also a larger communal table opposite the counter. Plants add vibrancy to the space, and coordinate nicely with the cheery yellow and green hues of the décor. The effect means that it's almost like sitting on a small, leafy patio — but without being at the whim of the London weather.




Espresso-based drinks are brewed on the mint-green custom La Marzocco machine. As a tea ignoramus, I was also surprised to learn that they also brew loose-leaf tea using the espresso machine — sometimes in combination with chai. And if you're in the mood for a black coffee, there are pourover and siphon brew methods available, as well as cold brew and nitro cold brew.




The coffee itself is from Workshop, one of my favourite London roasters. On my first visit, I opted for an Ecuadorean coffee brewed as a pourover, which was nicely brewed with sweet, tart notes. Regular readers will be unsurprised to learn that my chronic case of 'ceramic cup envy' soon reared its head. It is a problem, but these minimalist cups are very lovely. When I returned, Yatish suggested that I try the one and one — a split shot served as an espresso and a cortado, alongside a small glass of fizzy water. This was made with a Rwandan Gitesi espresso, which worked just as well with milk as without.


On my first visit, I browsed a copy of the Kafi Journal, the cafe's accompanying publication that provides interested lay coffee lovers with more detail on the cafe, and the coffee production and brewing processes, from bean to cup. Second time around, I enjoyed chatting to Yatish over coffee to hear more about Kafi. His passion both for coffee (and tea) and his business shone through, and the attention to detail he and Tripti have put into every aspect Kafi is manifestly obvious. The coffee is very good, but Kafi is also a calm, relaxed and welcoming place, and it's a great addition to the neighbourhood.

Kafi. 20 Cleveland Street, London, W1T 4JA (Tube: Goodge Street). Website. Twitter. Instagram.

For 100+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, please check out my speciality coffee guide.

One of the high points of my first trip to Japan in 2014 was my visit to Omotesando Koffee, located, as you might expect, in the Omotesando district of Tokyo. I enjoyed the calm atmosphere, minimalist decor and the best macchiato of my trip. I had hoped to return some day and was sad to learn that it closed at the end of 2015, although there are sister cafes in Toranomon Hills, Tokyo; Singapore; and Hong Kong.

Ahead of my upcoming trip to Peru, I've been stocking up on hiking kit and it turns out that Southampton Street in Covent Garden is a great place to do this. After I've finished shopping, I happen upon a café called Abuelo and because I've been brushing up on my Spanish, I know its name means 'grandfather'. Indeed, despite the café's Aussie stylings, it also has a strong South American influence.


Late in the lunch period on a rainy Sunday and the diminutive eatery is busy with brunchers, but they manage to squeeze me into a space at the large communal table that occupies most of the space between the counter and the front window. There are a couple of smaller tables over to one side, and an even smaller one by the door. The decor is comfortingly rustic, with wooden chairs adorned with kangaroo motifs and walls adorned with large, photographic landscapes. The 'grandfatherly' name of Abuelo is supposed to invoke thoughts of family and home, and in that they have definitely succeeded.




There's a small but steady stream of takeout coffee orders. "Do you do proper Aussie coffee?" asks one guy, an Aussie. He has obviously missed the sign outside. Aussie coffee, it reads. The barista answers in the affirmative and a few minutes later, the customer is leaving happily with his beverage.


As for the coffee, Abuelo features various Central and South American single origins. The Peruvian Café Fememino available as a pourover sounds great — and would be apt given my reason for being in Southampton Street in the first place — but my space at the table is needed back in 30 minutes. Instead, I go for a flat white, brewed with the house coffee, the Colombian La Laguna. When in Melbourne...or Medellín, for that matter. It's a good choice and the coffee is well made and slips down very easily.


The Australian twists are present in the brunch menu too. It isn't fully vegetarian — there are several meaty toasties, for instance — but most of the dishes are, or can be made, meat free. I order the beetroot and rosemary hummus on toast, which comes with garlic broad beans, amaranth, greens, and a poached egg. It is as delicious as it is vibrant and colourful. I don't even get food envy when my neighbour's BBQ Croque Monsieur arrives. If you have room for dessert, the cakes on the counter make for a tempting offering.



The queue hasn't died down by the time I leave, but they do take bookings, or you can leave your name and come back a little later if they can't quite accommodate you. Despite the busy-ness, the staff were friendly and welcoming — just like if you were at your abuelo's house.


Abuelo. 26 Southampton Street, London, WC2E 7RS (Tube: Covent Garden). Website. Instagram.

For 100+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, please check out my speciality coffee guide.

Even as it expands and evolves, the speciality coffee world is sometimes smaller than you might think. Just last month, I walked past The Grand Café on the High Street in my hometown, Oxford, noting the text in the window that claimed the site as that of England's first coffee house, dating back to 1651. It turns out that this coffee house, once named the Angel Inn, was opened by a Jewish man called Jacob, who also gives his name to a rather more modern coffee shop, which I visited last weekend.


Jacob the Angel is located, appropriately enough, at 16 1/2 Neal's Yard — 16.5, if you will (16.51 might be pushing it) — in Covent Garden. I have wanted to visit both Jacob the Angel and its larger sibling and neighbour, The Barbary, for some time but the wonderful little foodie hub that is Neal's Yard is often very busy, particularly at the weekends. It turns out that early afternoon just before England's last game of the 2018 World Cup is the ideal time to visit if you would like to find a table — even if the coveted window seats, which afford perfect people-watching opportunities, remained occupied.


Inside, the café is small and beautifully decorated. A wooden bench runs along each wall, hosting brushed-brass tables and bar stools. Vintage photos bedeck one wall, while on the other, a tribute to the titular Jacob is displayed. I claimed a table and went up to the L-shaped counter at the back of the shop to place my order.



The coffee is from Square Mile, and although there were filter coffee options on the menu, I'd been brewing up an iced filter coffee storm at home earlier in the day and decided to go for a piccolo, with the Red Brick espresso blend. My coffee was beautifully made by the charming and friendly Daniele. I was also rather fond of the smart, racing green crockery, although my piccolo came in a glass.



I had hoped to indulge in a spot of brunch, despite my late arrival, but they were all out of the sourdough bread that was one of the key ingredients in the avocado toast I'd hoped to order. Instead, there were various pre-made sandwiches on the counter. I went for a posh egg mayo roll on challah bread, which was tasty and filling enough for me on such a hot day. I almost picked up a dessert on the way out — the chocolate and coconut slices looked particularly good — but I couldn't quite find room; a treat I will have to indulge in on my return visit.



Jacob the Angel. 16 1/2 Neal's Yard, London, WC2H 9DP (Tube: Covent Garden). Website. Instagram.

For 100+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, please check out my speciality coffee guide.

Oxford's Grand Cafe, the site of the original Jacob's Angel Inn

I was pleased to hear when TAP — the speciality coffee company formerly known as Tapped & Packed — opened a fourth location across the road from verdant Russell Square late last summer. It's relatively close to my office in King's Cross — definitely doable on a lunch break — but it took me until last week to visit. The second TAP, a small, quirky coffee bar at the northern end of Tottenham Court Road, was an early favourite of mine as both London and I began to discover speciality coffee. It didn't quite make my first London coffee guide, but I did include it in the second version in 2012.


Aesthetically, the Russell Square branch is very similar to Tottenham Court Road, albeit on a larger scale. The spacious café has a long wooden table with stool seating that cuts the space roughly in half, and there is further seating along the far wall. The lovely pendant lighting and other design features — the COFFEE sign, vintage teaspoons and repurposed Lyle's black treacle tins, for example — will be familiar to anyone who has visited any of the other TAPs (including the Wardour Street branch).



It was late in the afternoon on a cold, grey Thursday so it wasn't too busy and I was in the mood for a pourover. There were three single-origin coffees on offer and I was about to ask the barista for advice, but then interrupted myself to order the Ethiopian Shakiso (£3.75; more expensive than both the Guatemalan and Rwandan varieties on the menu). I couldn't resist the sound of the sloe gin and blueberry flavour notes in the Ethiopian coffee.


As I poured myself a glass of water using the rustic-looking tap by the brew bar, the smell of the freshly roasted Shakiso reached my nose and I could tell that it was going to be a really good cup of coffee. The coffee arrived promptly, complete with a cute Llangollen teaspoon. The sugar was also available in its Lyle's tin holder, but I just used it as a prop and did not, of course, add any to my coffee. The coffee was indeed excellent. The barista had prepared it very well and the flavours came through very nicely, particularly after the coffee had cooled slightly in its Acme cup.



My coffee was so nice that I almost bought the last remaining bag of Shakiso beans (£10) but I still had a lot of coffee to use up at home, so I decided to hold off for the time being. It was great to see a veritable rainbow of retail bags of TAP coffee beans available for sale, the prices ranging between £8.50 and £10. The usual espresso-based drinks are on offer too, as well as various teas, cakes and sandwiches.



TAP Coffee. 72 Russell Square, London, WC1B 5BA (Tube: Russell Square).

For many more London speciality coffee recommendations, check out my London speciality coffee guide.