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Showing posts with label New York coffee shops. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New York coffee shops. Show all posts

03 January 2025

My 2024 Coffee, Food and Cocktail Favourites

Today I'm sharing the most delicious and caffeinated of my end-of-year recaps, where I pick my favourite specialty coffee shops, eateries and bars from among those I visited for the first time in 2024 — in London and on my travels around the world. 


22 November 2024

The NYC Caffeine Chronicles: Autumn 2024 Update

Whenever I visit New York City, specialty coffee shop hopping is always on my agenda. I've been visiting the city's coffee shops for over two decades and it's a pleasure to go both to a coffee shop I've frequented for 21 years and to a whole host of much newer specialty coffee spots on the same trip. NYC's coffee scene has continued to evolve with my own tastes and I always discover new cafes and roasters to check out. My most recent trip was no exception!


17 November 2024

A Long Weekend in New York City: Autumn 2024


For me, there's always been something special about New York City. Since my first visit in 1995, I've always loved the sights, sounds, scents — and shopping! I even celebrated my milestone birthday there last November with my family. I start to miss the city before I've even made it back to the airport. And I've been looking forward to this one — my 34th trip to NYC — since I booked in the summer. Read on to find out what I got up to!

20 November 2023

The NYC Caffeine Chronicles: Autumn 2023 Update

Last week, I was back in New York for an epic birthday celebration. We had so many activities planned — of which more to follow soon! — that I didn't have as much time for coffee shop exploration, but with five full days in NYC, I didn't do too badly. We were staying next to Grand Central Station in Midtown East, so I was able to visit a few coffee shops there. And I also enjoyed stopping by some new-to-me specialty coffee spots further downtown, including one that has to have the most unique name ever for a coffee shop. Read on to find out more!


28 December 2022

Bex's Coffee and Food Awards: 2022 Edition

As 2022 draws to a close, it's time for the 12th edition of my annual speciality coffee and food awards, where I share my favourite coffee shops and eateries from among all of those that I visited for the first time this year. Over the past few years, I've tweaked the geographical boundaries of some awards to reflect my travel schedule, which has changed somewhat as a result of COVID.


24 June 2022

The NYC Caffeine Chronicles: Manhattan Speciality Coffee Update

Earlier this week, I wrote about three of the excellent new-to-me speciality coffee shops I visited in Brooklyn during my recent visit. But I had the opportunity to stop by a fair few coffee spots in Manhattan too. I was staying near Bryant Park, which meant that Midtown coffee shops feature quite prominently on this list. There used to be a real dearth of speciality coffee in this part of town, but there are now dozens of places to get a great cup of coffee. I did find, however, that many of the Midtown coffee shops I visited had a real focus on takeaway and served coffee in disposable cups even if you are drinking in (COVID has been a driver, of course). This isn't that surprising, given the high proportion of tourists and office workers in that part of town, but it is worth noting.


20 June 2022

The NYC Caffeine Chronicles: A Brooklyn Specialty Coffee Tour

After a two-year absence, I finally returned to New York City earlier this month, for a holiday with my parents. We were originally supposed to go in May 2020, but we all know why that didn't happen. With six days in the city, I had plenty of time to visit some new and new-to-me specialty coffee shops. And three of my favourites were all in Brooklyn. 


24 February 2020

New York Speciality Coffee Update — Winter 2020

I spent five days in New York at the beginning of my recent US trip. I was there for work and only had Saturday afternoon and Sunday free in the city, but managed to squeeze in visits to four new-to-me speciality coffee shops. One of these — Yafa Cafe — is all the way down in Sunset Park, Brooklyn, but the wonderfully welcoming Yemeni coffee shop and eatery was well worth the visit even on a short trip.

Citizens of SoHo (SoHo)
I stumbled upon Aussie coffee shop and brunch spot Citizens of SoHo while I was wandering up Lafayette Street. They have several other 'Citizens of' locations, and the SoHo branch had only been open a few days when I visited. I had already eaten brunch but I was very much in the market for coffee.


02 January 2020

A Decade-Long Specialty Coffee Journey

I've been writing about coffee since I started this blog in 2007, but it wasn't until the start of the last decade when specialty coffee shop reviews became a more central focus of my posts. In January 2010, I was living in Marylebone and had just taken a new job in King's Cross. Back then, I had to walk 20 minutes on my lunch break to get to the nearest specialty coffee shop, the original Espresso Room. And now...well, the specialty coffee scene in King's Cross, London and many other cities throughout the world has changed dramatically.


31 October 2019

New York Speciality Coffee Update — Autumn 2019


Earlier this month, I was back in New York for eight days. I was working and staying in the Financial District for most of the trip, and to the best of my knowledge, I've already explored most of the best speciality coffee options in the neighbourhood (my guide is here). This, combined with what seemed to be a relatively small number of new openings of independent speciality coffee shops since my last visit one year ago, meant I didn't get to visit as many new-to-me coffee shops as I had hoped. There were four or five on my list that I couldn't quite squeeze in this trip, and two more in the East Village (Frisson Espresso and Southern Cross) that have recently closed — alas, Google Maps hadn't yet got the memo!

These are the new-to-me places I did visit (all of which have also been added to my New York speciality coffee guide and map):

Baodega (Flatiron)
After two weeks in Malaysia, where I consumed more than my fair share of dumplings, I couldn't resist visiting a cafe in the Flatiron district that offered both dim sum and speciality coffee. Baodega has an excellent-value set menu at lunch, but as I was looking for something lighter, I went for six soup dumplings instead, which were really good. The coffee is from Kopi Trading Co, and although my cortado was on the long side, it was smooth and well-balanced. As I arrived during the lunch rush, the only seating was at one of the large sharing tables opposite the counter, but this just gave me the opportunity to eye up my neighbours' enviable feasts.



Baodega is located at 7 W. 20th Street nr Fifth Ave. Website. Instagram.


Bluestone Lane (Times Square)
I've visited several branches of this Australian speciality coffee mini-chain before, including one in DC, and have found them to be as good a source of proper piccolos as of minimalist, pastel-accented aesthetics. I was therefore pleased when a journalist I was meeting suggested we meet at the Times Square branch, just opposite the New York Times. It's a small coffee bar, with not much seating, but the location is very convenient for Times Square. My piccolo was very good, even if I was too late to stop the barista making it in a disposable cup.

Bluestone Lane is located at 11 Times Square nr Eighth Ave (and various other locations). Website. Twitter. Instagram.


Brooklyn Roasting Company (DUMBO)
I visited the DUMBO branch of this Brooklyn-based roaster mid-way through one of my 'usual' New York runs: over the Manhattan Bridge to Brooklyn and then back over the Brooklyn Bridge. Located on Washington Street — now 'Instagram famous' as a result of the 'between the blocks' shot of the Manhattan Bridge that you can snap — the spacious, cosy cafe was a great spot for a quick breakfast. My cortado was well brewed, and the cheddar-jalapeño scone set me up for the rest of my run.



Brooklyn Roasting Company is located at 45 Washington Street nr Water St (and other locations). Website. Twitter. Instagram.


Felix Roasting Co. (NoMad)
Having seen photos of Felix Roasting Co. online several months ago, I knew that the NoMad cafe with its straight-out-of-a-Wes-Anderson-film interiors would be beautiful. But what about the coffee?


After having a run of cortados that were slightly longer than I usually prefer, I was keen to switch to filter coffee and was pleased to spot an Ethiopian Wush Wush coffee available as a batch-brew filter coffee. I became familiar with Wush Wush in 2017, when I just missed out on trying it at the London Coffee Festival. At Felix, the coffee's sweet honey and blackberry notes came through nicely, and sitting in the elegant, baroque cafe was a very civilised way to spend a coffee break.


Felix Roasting Co. is located at 450 Park Avenue South nr E. 31st St. Website. Instagram.


Gimme! Coffee (Nolita)
I have been to Nolita-based Gimme! Coffee before but it was a long time ago and I never photographed it for my blog. I was pleased to discover that it was just around the corner from my second hotel, and stopped by for a very fine macchiato on my way into the office on Friday morning.


The narrow coffee shop has just a couple of seats at the end of the counter, as well as on the bench outside, but they've managed to squeeze in a shelf with retail coffee beans and coffee kit, and local art adorns the walls. If you're in Nolita, this is a great place for a quick coffee stop.


Gimme! Coffee is located at 228 Mott Street nr Prince St. Website. Twitter. Instagram.


Partners Coffee (West Village)
I've visited Australian roaster Toby's Estate's Williamsburg and Flatiron cafes several times before, but not since the New York arm of the company's rebrand — and rebirth as Partners Coffee — earlier this year. As I was in the West Village on my first afternoon in the city, I decided to visit Partners' Charles Street cafe, in an angular, red-brick building on the corner of Seventh Avenue. I arrived not long before closing and so opted for a macchiato with the Bedford Blend espresso, which was a lovely pick-me-up after my flight from London. Single-origin espressos and pourovers were also available, and Partners' signature brightly coloured bags of retail beans are also on sale.


Partners Coffee is located 44 Charles Street nr 7th Ave. South (and other locations). Website. Twitter.


As I was spending so much time in the Financial District, I also re-visited two of my favourite three coffee spots in the neighbourhood, Black Fox Coffee and Cafe Grumpy (the third being Voyager Espresso). At Black Fox, I had a chocolatey Colombian Los Gigantes filter coffee from Ritual, and bought some fruity Ethiopian beans from Vancouver roaster Lüna, which I've been enjoying at home. As Cafe Grumpy's small, orange-accented coffee shop is often busy in the mornings, I stuck to the batch-brew filter coffee and was really impressed with the single-origin Nicaraguan coffee on offer. As I took my coffee to go in my HuskeeCup, I also got a 50¢ discount.



I had hoped to visit Nobletree's Financial District coffee shop, but in my pre-work rush, I couldn't track it down inside the sprawling Westfield World Trade Center (possibly because according to Yelp, if not their own website, it's closed). Instead, I visited another branch of Gregorys Coffee, close to my hotel on Broad Street nr William. The single-origin batch-brew filter wasn't ready yet, so I enjoyed a well-made cortado in this busy coffee bar. There isn't much seating, so it's best to fire up your reusable cup so that you can enjoy your brew elsewhere.

Finally, I was also able to stop by one of my favourite branches of Irving Farm Coffee Roasters, located on Orchard Street in the Lower East Side. I got an Ethiopian pourover to go in my HuskeeCup, which kept me caffeinated on my walk over the Williamsburg Bridge to Brooklyn.


For 80+ more of my favourite coffee shops in New York, please check out my speciality coffee guide; I've also included below my updated NYC speciality coffee map.


06 November 2018

New York Speciality Coffee Update — Autumn 2018

After my conference in DC ended, I took the Amtrak to New York. I spent a couple of days working in my company's Lower Manhattan office and then had a three-day weekend to enjoy the city, taking some tips from my own NYC long weekend guide. I was staying in the Financial District again for the first two nights and I had the chance to visit quite a few coffee shops in the area — some new to me, and others that I included in my 2017 FiDi coffee guide. Then, I moved up to the Lower East Side and my coffee shop visits covered a wider area, although nothing north of Union Square this time. Although it's not exactly breaking news that there is a strong Australian influence on the New York speciality coffee scene, I did find myself visiting more Aussie-style shops than usual this trip; this was entirely coincidental.

Scroll down to find out which coffee spots I discovered (and if you need more NYC speciality coffee guidance, my guide may help),

Brooklyn
Stumptown Coffee Roasters
Portland-based Stumptown is one of my favourite US roasters and their Greenwich Village flagship store has long been one of my favourite New York coffee shops. I found out about their new Brooklyn cafe, located inside the former Cobble Hill firehouse, thanks to Lora of Third Wave Coffee Tours.


I stopped by one morning mid-way through my Manhattan Bridge / Brooklyn Bridge run. The first thing that struck me was how beautiful the coffee shop is. From the stunning, hand-painted La Marzocco Linea PB espresso machine to the sleek dark wood of the coffee bar and panelling, and the verdant front courtyard, every detail has been carefully thought out. I enjoyed perching at the marble high tables opposite the counter but through the arch at the back is another room with more tables and chairs.


The coffee was top notch too. I enjoyed a beautifully made cortado brewed using the Hair Bender espresso, which paired very nicely with a coconut and almond doughnut. If you're heading on to Brooklyn Bridge to walk back to Manhattan, it's just a short jaunt up Court Street to Cadman Plaza.


212b Pacific Street nr Court St, Cobble Hill, and other locations. Website. Twitter. Instagram.

Oslo Coffee Roasters
With two locations in Williamsburg and one on the Upper East Side, Oslo Coffee Roasters has been on my list for some time. And indeed, the roaster has been in operation for 15 years so I'm late to this party. The small Bedford Avenue branch is at the southern end of Williamsburg's main drag, not far from the Williamsburg Bridge. I walked over from the Lower East Side, but if you're heading there by subway, do bear in mind the upcoming disruptions to the L train.


On a Saturday morning, the store was busy and I was lucky to find a spot to sit and read the New York Times while I waited for my coffee. The espresso shots are pulled with skill on the San Marco Leva lever espresso machine, and served with a smile. I ordered a cortado, which was smooth and well-balanced.

328 Bedford Avenue nr S. 2nd St, Williamsburg, and other locationsWebsite. Twitter. Instagram.


Financial District
Black Fox Coffee (revisit)
Although there were many of new-to-me coffee shops on my FiDi to-do list, I had to return to one of my all-time favourites, Black Fox Coffee. Luckily, it's only a 10-minute walk from my office, in the ground floor of a smart development on Pine Street. I arrived during the pre-work rush but the spacious cafe meant I still found a spot to perch at one of the wooden high tables opposite the counter.


As usual, single-origin coffees were available from an all-star list of North American roasters. I opted for an Ethiopian Guji coffee from Portland-based Heart Roasters, which was available as a 'small-batch brew'. I initially thought the barista meant it was a small-batch roast but it was a batch brew but made in a smaller quantity. The resulting coffee was delicious, with juicy peach and lychee notes. As the weather was indicating that fall had arrived, I thought it was only right to have an apple cider bundt cake for breakfast; an excellent choice. One day, I'll get to Black Fox early enough to try a more substantial breakfast!


70 Pine Street bet. Pearl & William St. Website. Instagram.

Boundless Plains Espresso
Another post-run, pre-work coffee stop was Boundless Plains Espresso, a beautiful, Aussie-style cafe located close to Trinity Church and the 9/11 Memorial. They serve coffee roasted by Parlor Coffee, as well as all-day eats.


After chatting with the friendly barista, I took a seat at the back, where there are several small tables set up. The minimalist décor presented a pleasant contrast with the streets outside, hectic during the morning rush. The coffee itself — my usual cortado — was excellent, and I also took a croissant to go. If you're in the market for something more substantial, there are various sandwiches and all-day eats available.



19 Rector Street nr Washington St. Website. Twitter. Instagram.

Cafe Grumpy (revisit)
I've been to the Financial District branch fo Cafe Grumpy several times now — it helps that the hotel I usually stay in for work is just a couple of doors down Stone Street. I love the décor, which combines white marble with pops of blue and orange, and strong geometric designs. The staff are also usually very friendly, even with there's a long queue.


Although they serve pourover coffees, I was running late for a meeting and so ordered a single-origin Kenyan espresso instead. I like espresso but rarely order it unless I'm convinced it will be brewed well, and that's pretty much a sure thing at Cafe Grumpy. This particular espresso, which I enjoyed in the geometric alcove, was fruity and delicious.


 20 Stone Street nr Broad St. Website. Twitter. Instagram.

Hole in the Wall
My colleagues — knowing my tastes exceptionally well — took me to lunch one day at Aussie eatery Hole in the Wall. The small cafe is very pretty inside but as the sun was shining, we decided to take one of the tables in the courtyard out front. The flat white, served in a cheerful yellow cup, was great. They use coffee from Denver-based roaster NOVO, which I don't think I've tried before.


The all-day menu combines classic brunch dishes with more creative menu items. My friend had the fall salad, which was huge and looked delicious. I went classic with the brekky role: smoked bacon, folded eggs, home fries and kimchi mayo in a brioche bun.


15 Cliff Street bet. John & Fulton St. Website. Instagram.

Proof Coffee Roasters
The tiniest New York coffee shop I visited this trip — and perhaps the tiniest coffee shop I've ever visited in NYC — Proof Coffee Roasters' Nassau street location is based in the heart of the Financial District. It's standing room only inside — and even then, there's only room for two customers plus the barista — but the coffee is excellent. I had a cortado to go, which lasted long enough to get me to the next coffee shop on my list.


65 Nassau Street nr John St. Website. Instagram.

For more Financial District speciality coffee spots, check out my FiDi coffee guide.


Lower East Side
Good Thanks
I discovered this Aussie cafe, which happened to be a few doors down from my Lower East Side hotel, thanks to the Acme & Co Instagram, a regular source of speciality coffee inspiration. I arrived early on Saturday morning and managed to nab the last table — and what a table it was with its beautiful marble surface. The rest of the décor is cosy, and the staff very welcoming. But try as I might, I couldn't stop myself from answering, "good thanks," when the server asked how I was.


As we were in Aussie territory, I figured I might get away with ordering a piccolo but I was asked to choose between cortado and macchiato. I went for the former, and it was fantastic, which very good latte art. I discovered later that the coffee was roasted by Proud Mary, a roaster I visited in Melbourne and which has recently opened up a cafe in Portland, Oregon. The dark blue Acme cups were rather gorgeous too.


I could have eaten most of the dishes on the breakfast/brunch menu, but ended up opting for the smashed avocado toast — and what a fine avo toast specimen it was too!


131 Orchard Street nr Rivington St. Website. Instagram.


West Village
Merriweather
I'm beginning to feel like a broken record, but Merriweather, in the West Village, is another Aussie-inspired coffee shop. The inspiration is specific in this case: the cafe is named for a beach in the founder's hometown. With its cheerful pops of green, from the espresso machine to the neon sign on the wall, it was a lovely place to sit on a sunny afternoon.


The coffee came from two US roasters — Counter Culture and Tandem from Portland, Maine. I had a Guatemalan Bella Vista coffee brewed as a pourover, which had lovely blackberry and honey notes. There was a laid-back vibe on the Friday afternoon I visited and had I not already eaten lunch, I'd have found much to enjoy on the all-day food menu.


428 Hudson Street nr Leroy St. Website. Instagram.


East Village
The Lazy Llama
I was sad to hear when Bluebird Coffee Shop on East 1st Street closed its doors a year or two ago. I liked the petite but perfectly formed cafe so much that its macchiato was even my social media avatar for a long time. Like a phoenix — or a camelid, at any rate — rising from the ashes, however, The Lazy Llama has filled the Bluebird-shaped void. There's still very little room inside the cosy coffee shop — there are three small tables (now adorned with llama-themed cushions), and a few more seats at the window and outside.


There were single-origin coffees from several roasters available, as espresso and hand-brewed filter coffee. I had an Ethiopian Duromina roasted by Stumptown and brewed as a pourover, which had peach and vanilla flavour notes. The coffee was really good — and after my recent trip to Peru, I'll admit that the llamas were also a draw.


72 E. 1st Street nr First Ave. FacebookInstagram.

Saltwater Coffee
I came close to visiting Saltwater in April when I ate at Motorino, the pizzeria right next door, but didn't quite have time. I couldn't let the Australian coffee shop evade me a second time, and stopped by for a cortado on Saturday afternoon. A big part of the appeal was the chance to try some coffee from The Little Marionette, the Sydney-based roaster I loved so much during my visit last year.


The coffee didn't disappoint — the latte art was impressive on my cortado and the coffee well-balanced and smooth. And yes, that is another example of Acme's classy dark blue crockery. There's plenty of foliage in the small, slim coffee shop too, and a few seating options, including the small tables by the window and the bench out on the pavement.


345 E. 12th Street bet 2nd & 1st Ave. Website. Instagram.

For more New York speciality coffee recommendations, please see my guide; I've also included below an updated version of my New York speciality coffee map:



22 June 2018

Long Weekend in New York City: Bex's Guide

From secret speakeasies and SoHo shops, to magnificent museums and Brooklyn Bridge, New York City is as good at alliteration as bucket-list items. Since I fell in love with the city during the sweltering summer of 1995, I’ve returned once or twice a year. These trips tend to be about four or five days including travel time, but it’s possible to pack a lot in even on short visits. You might not make it to all the major sights and museums, but you’ve got to save something for next time, right?


Following on from the long weekend in London guide I compiled last summer, I’ve put together an itinerary for a four-day weekend in New York. This assumes arrival on a Thursday afternoon and departure on Sunday evening but you can mix things up to suit your own plans. On the agenda are some of my favourite things to do and see, and places to eat, drink, shop and drink coffee. Scroll to the end for even more recommendations, some practical information and a Google Map of each featured place. I hope you find this guide useful — please let me know in the comments if you have any questions or suggestions. You can find all of my NYC-related blog posts here.


THURSDAY

15:00 Jet-lag busting
A morning flight from London can get you to JFK or Newark soon after lunch, and if you take a taxi into town you could be at your hotel by 15:00 local time. I usually head straight out into the daylight and towards coffee. Luckily, NYC has a booming speciality coffee scene and the choice is vast. If you’re in SoHo try Everyman Espresso, in the Flatiron District check out Paper Coffee or in Midtown (via Melbourne) head to Little Collins (pictured). For many other options, click over to my full New York coffee shop guide.


18:00 Casual supper
On my first evening, I like to go to a favourite spot for a low-key dinner. The historic Fanelli Café in SoHo has served food and drink, under various names, since 1847, and is a great spot for comfort food. Likewise, P.J. Clarke’s, whose bustling Midtown East branch (featured in Mad Men) is my favourite, serves a mean burger, and other modern American classics.


20:00 Sunsets and the city
You may be craving your bed but holding out for a glorious sunset from the Top of the Rock could be more rewarding (weather-permitting). I like the view here more than from the top of the Empire State Building, not least because you can see the latter from the Top of the Rock. The space at the top is more open too, which allows for better viewing and photos.



FRIDAY 

07:00 Central Park run
Unless you’re a super sleeper, you will probably wake up early and a run around the 843-acre Central Park is the perfect way to kickstart your morning. There’s a 10km running loop around the park but there are lots of other paths if you’d like a shorter run. Pick up a coffee afterwards from Ninth Street Espresso or Blue Bottle, and perhaps a sweet treat from Milk Bar.


09:00 Take the High Line
Head to the West 34th Street end of the High Line, an art-filled public park constructed on an elevated rail line that runs south to Gansevoort Street in the Meatpacking District. Stop for coffee along the way at Underline or Intelligentsia, and pop into Chelsea Market for interesting shops and eateries, and Story, a concept store with ever-changing concepts.


11:00 Village shops
The West Village and Greenwich Village together form one of New York’s loveliest areas. It’s fun to pick out your favourite brownstone on the small, characterful streets, and there are wonderful shops. Try Flight 001 for travel goods, Three Lives & Co (one of my all-time favourite bookshops), Marine Layer for ‘absurdly soft’ clothing, Pink Olive for accessories and gifts, and Greenwich Letterpress for beautiful stationery.



13:00 Downtown lunch
You won’t starve in these parts. Lunch options include Corner Bistro, Mighty Quinn’s Barbeque, Dante (pictured) and Jeffrey’s Grocery. I haven’t yet tried the pizzas (or burger) at Emily, but they are supposed to be top notch. For a post-lunch coffee, check out Stumptown’s gorgeous NYC flagship cafe on West 8th (pictured) or the petite but perfectly formed Third Rail Coffee just south of Washington Square.



14:30 South of Houston
Head south into the shopping paradise of SoHo. I prefer this downtown branch of Bloomingdale’s to the stuffier uptown original, and many of the chains I like to visit in the US — Madewell, Lululemon, Patagonia and Sephora — have stores here. Just east of Broadway, you can find the MoMA Design Store, minimalist clothing retailer Everlane, and two great bookshops: Housing Works and McNally Jackson. If you need another coffee, look no further than Cafe Integral, a beautiful cafe that specialises in single-origin Nicaraguan coffees (pictured).


16:00 Tenement tour
The Tenement Museum offers unique insights into the Lower East Side neighbourhood by running tours through restored tenement apartments that bring immigrant stories to life. I’ve taken three tours, one focusing on an Irish family, one on public health and one walking tour with samples of foods typical of various immigrant cuisines. Many tours sell out, so you should book in advance if possible.


19:00 LES dinner and drinks
You can find almost any cuisine in the restaurants of the Lower East Side, from Vanessa’s legendary dumplings, to Mission Chinese Food and Tijuana Picnic. Retire to The Back Room, a Prohibition Era secret speakeasy, for cocktails.


SATURDAY

09:00 Brooklyn breakfast Take the subway to Brooklyn’s Bedford-Stuyvesant for a cracking breakfast at Golda. With great coffee from Parlor and Middle Eastern-influenced cuisine in a bright and beautifully designed cafe, it’s well worth the trip. If you have time — and especially in cherry blossom season — walk off your breakfast in the Brooklyn Botanic Garden.


11:30 Williamsburg wander
Ride the subway to hip Williamsburg. Sweatshop on Metropolitan, Toby’s Estate on North 6th and Devoción on Grand are great coffee choices in the area. On Bedford Avenue, shop — and people-watch — your way up to McCarren Park. Then head west to East River State Park, for Smorgasburg, a huge outdoor street food market. It’s there every Saturday from October until April.


15:00 Boat trippin’
The NYC Ferry runs a route that zigzags along the East River between Manhattan and Brooklyn from 34th Street to Wall Street. It’s a scenic ride and the fastest, most fun way to travel from Williamsburg to Dumbo. Disembark at Brooklyn Bridge and enjoy the views of the Manhattan skyline from Brooklyn Bridge Park. Then develop more house envy in Brooklyn Heights, a picturesque neighbourhood with historic brownstones and fruit-themed street names.



18:00 A view from the bridge
If you’re lucky, you may hit golden hour or sunset when you take a leisurely stroll across Brooklyn Bridge. This is my favourite walk in the world, and I still get a thrill each time I first set foot upon the iconic bridge’s pedestrian walkway. The experience is better if you walk from Brooklyn to Manhattan; otherwise, you’ll just keep turning around to soak in the stunning Manhattan skyline views, like Orpheus unable to resist the temptation of Eurydice. Don’t rush, take lots of photos and mind the cyclists!


19:00 World-class cocktails
The Brooklyn Bridge walkway leads to City Hall and then it’s a short walk to The Dead Rabbit, which rightly features in numerous lists of the world’s best cocktail bars. Its sister bar, BlackTail (pictured), in Battery Park is just as good.


20:30 Neighbourhood dining
From the Financial District, it’s a short subway ride to North Moore Street in Tribeca, home to one of my favourite New York restaurants. Cosy, intimate and with delicious food and well-mixed cocktails, Smith & Mills is a special place. They don’t take reservations but it’s worth the wait. If the jet lag hasn’t kicked in, go for a nightcap. Mother’s Ruin in SoHo and The Up & Up (pictured) in Greenwich Village are two of my favourite cocktail spots.



SUNDAY 

09:00 Brunch o’clock
Ward off last night’s excesses with a good brekkie. Prune, Ruby’s, Jack’s Wife Freda (pictured) and Bluestone Lane are all excellent choices. It’s worth booking if the eatery accepts reservations.


11:00 Sunday morning culture
Journey to Museum Mile, a section of Fifth Avenue that runs along Central Park’s Eastern flank. The Metropolitan Museum of Art may be on your must-see list, but for a more doable chunk of culture on a short trip, I prefer the Guggenheim (pictured) and the Frick Collection on East 70th — a ‘best-of’ collection of Old Masters. For post-culture coffee, try Flora Bar.


13:00 Pizza the action
If you haven’t yet had your pizza fix, take the subway to Motorino (pictured) in the East Village, which serves supremely tasty Neapolitan pizza; new LES opening Una Pizza Napoletana is also highly rated.


14:30 Getting square
After lunch, wander through the East Village and then up to Union Square. The farmers’ market isn’t open on Sundays, but there are often events and festivals taking place. Walk up Fifth Avenue or Broadway to Madison Square (both stretches are great for shopping — ABC Carpet & Home and quirky crockery purveyor Fishs Eddy are located on Broadway). Madison Square Park often has art and always has superb views of the Flat Iron and Empire State Building. If you skipped lunch, seek sustenance at Shake Shack or Italian food emporium Eataly. If you have time for a last coffee, try Patent (which turns into a cocktail bar at 16:00) or Blank Slate.



FIVE MORE GREAT…

Black Fox Coffee

Cookshop

The Spotted Pig

PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Accommodation: I’ve stayed in diverse New York accommodations, from youth hostels to the Four Seasons, and everything in between. Recently, I’ve been impressed with the Soho Grand and the Gild Hall (I got a great deal when staying in February). However, given the wealth of options available, I’d suggest searching with sites like booking.com, hotels.com or Airbnb. Neighbourhood-wise, I prefer to stay in SoHo, Nolita or the Flatiron District for maximum flexibility and access to good coffee.

Arriving: From JFK, I usually splurge on a taxi, which is $52 plus tolls to Manhattan. The journey takes around an hour, depending on traffic. You can also take the AirTrain to Howard Beach subway station and then the A train into Manhattan. This costs about $8 and can be done in 1h15. From Newark, I take the AirTrain monorail and then the train to Penn Station, which costs $13 and takes about 50 minutes.

Getting around: I walk a lot when I’m in New York, jumping on the subway when necessary. The subway is generally the most efficient mode of transport, although if you’re travelling from east to west, buses are helpful. Taxis, Uber and Lyft are plentiful.

Money: US currency is the dollar ($). The UK exchange rate has been dire for some time. Credit and debit cards are accepted almost everywhere — even at many street-food stalls. Chip-and-pin and contactless payment options are catching on, although far from universal. Cashpoints (ATMs) are ubiquitous; some charge a fee for withdrawals.

When to come: Apart from July and August, when the city is often unbearably hot and sticky, New York is a delight to visit throughout the year. For busy sight-seeing agendas, spring or autumn are my favourite seasons, even if the weather can be unpredictable. Bring layers — or be prepared to shop. The city is magical during the holiday season and although it can be very cold and snowy, it’s rare that inclement weather causes much disruption.


OTHER NEW YORK RESOURCES


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